Pile-fabric-finishing methods and apparatus

ABSTRACT

Deep heating of the pile of a pile fabric is accomplished rapidly by an electrifier roll and the heated pile fibers are acted upon by a downwardly weighted embossing or texturing roll or bar having temperature approximating that of the pile fibers. The position of the patterning roll or bar is adjustable, and control is exercised over both axial and rotational movements thereof to enable the production of different pattern effects.

United States Patent Feb. 15,1972

Martin 54] PILE-FABRIC-FINISHING METHODS 2,338,792 111944 Whitehead ..26/2 R x AND APPARATUS 1,912,625 6/1933 2,700,205 1 1955 [72] Inventor: Henry L. Madam-Elmira, Ontario, Canada 2 723 937 $1955 [73] Assignee: The Bunker-Rama Corporation, Oak 3,052,947 9/ 1962 Brook, Ill. Primary Examiner-Robert R. Mackey [22] Att0mey-Frederick M. Arbuckle [211 Appl. No.: 15,625

, e ABSTRACT [1.8- C. 26/2 E, R, P Deep heating of the of a fabri i a om li h d [51] Int.Cl. v ..D06c 23/04 rapidly by an -m l-oll and the heated pile fib are [58] Field of Search 26/2, 2 E, 69; 28/72 P; 69/27 acted upon by a downwardly weighted embossing or texturing roll or bar having temperature approximating that of the pile [56] References cued fibers. The position of the patterning roll or bar is adjustable,

UNITED STATES PATENTS and control is exercised over both axial and rotational move- 7 ments thereof to enable the production of different pattern ef- 2,035,640 3/1936 Dickie et a1. ..26/2 R fects 2,035,641 3/1936 Dickie et al.. ...26/2 R 3,1 14,957 12/1963 Schaab et al. ..26/2 R 24 Claims, 9 Drawing Figures l0 l2 s o 0 51' 0 I y 72 52 v 0 lg-0 Q I y I. N I

54 1ij v 1 66 SQQ 35 w I 1,

in I 1 20 a 24 E e 45 l g 28 f 48 PATENTEDFEB 1 5 I972 3.641.635

SHEEI 2 [IF 3 PATENTEDFEB 15 m2 3.641.635

SHEET 3 OF 3 1 PlLE-FABRIC-FINISHINGMETHODS AND APPARATUS BACKGROUND OF THEINVENTION This invention pertains to the finishing of pile fabrics. It is concerned particularly .with methods and apparatus for producing design ortexture effects at the faces of pile fabrics, and to pile fabric products resulting from treatment by such methods. v

Although some patterningeffects can be achieved during the initial formation of pile fabrics by knitting, weaving, flocking, or tufting techniques, it has long been recognized that patterning treatments which couldbe carried outafter the initial fabrication operation would be useful. In instances where the desired design or texture effects can be achieved in finishing operations, the basic'fabrication procedures canbe carried out more flexibly and changes in pattern can be accomplished rapidly in order to accommodate the changing desires of the market without excessive inventory problems.

Accordingly, various finishing procedureshave been suggested heretofore for producing'localized changes in" depth of pile and/or the directional orientation of the pile fibers making up the pile surfaces. Embossing techniques, such, for example, as that described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,052,947, have received much attention. Additionally, there have been proposals for texturing pile fabric by dragging the pileface across an element, such as a fixed bar, whichpresses the pile fabrics into different, usually somewhat random, orientations relative to each other. An example of such a technique is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 2,035,640.

In all of these finishing processes designed to' impart design or texture effects to pile fabrics, it has been necessary toheat the pile concurrently with the application of the patterning or texturing action. Unless the pile is heated at'the time it is acted upon by the patterning devices, the effects produced are transitory in nature and are of little commercial value. I-lOwever, when the pile fibers are properly'he'ated at the time of the treatment, they tend to set permanently in the configurations established by the'treating devices, and the pattern or texture effects become sufficientlypermanent in character to be useful.

ln spite-of the longstanding recognition of aneed to carry out patterning and texturing treatments in the presence of heat, notruly satisfactoryprocedure for coordinating proper pile fiber heating with=pattern inducing mechanical action had been developed prior to this invention. Some=examples will serve to indicate the scope of the problem.

One embossing technique which has been used extensively in the treatment of pile fabrics of the type employed in such garments as coats is a batch process. A suitable length of fabric is laid out in a flattened condition and a molded matrix is laid on top of the pile face. This assembly then is wound on a large drum under tension to press the matrix against the pile and impart to the pile a pattern of depressions corresponding to that present in the matrix itself. Then the entire assembly is heated and cooled in sequential steps'to set the pile in its new orientation, and the material is then unwound from the drum.

This batch process is excessively slow and expensive. Moreover, it adversely affects some important characteristics of the pile. The heat treatment typically extends over 20 to 30 minutes, and as a result substantial-annealing and delustering effects occur in the pile fibers.

Another widely used embossing technique is a continuous process in which a heated patterning member is pressed against the pile face of a moving fabric. With this procedure the heating of the pile fibers is accomplished by conduction,

and in view of the low heat conductivity of the pile, the patterning member itself must be held at a very high temperature. This results in thermal shock to the pile fiber portions which actually contact the patterning member, with accompanying physical deterioration of the fiber tips which tends to give the resulting fabric a harsh hand and reduced luster. Even so, the pile fiber portions not contacted directly by the heated patterningzelement rarely will reach the desired temperature level to heat over a long interval of time. Then the heated'faliric is acted upon by an embossing roll or other patterning element which reorients the heated pile. Such systems have most of the disadvantages of the batch process described above. Again,

undesiredannealing and delustering effects occur and again there are substantial practical manufacturing disadvantages. For example, when it becomes necessary to shut down the process to correct some minor flaw, the long length of fabric in the'heating zone must'be quickly removed, and even when this is done, significant yardage losses occur.

The literature additionally contains suggestions for continuous processes in which short heat treatments of the environmental ty'pe appear to be contemplated. However, these have notproved'practical. The insulating character of the pile of pile fabrics makes it virtually impossible to uniformly heat the pile fibers in a short period of time through the use of environmental heating techniques.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION A principal object of this invention is to overcome the disadvantages noted above and provide pile-fabric-finishihg methods and apparatus for economically producing a variety of pattern or texture effects without degradation of the pile fibers.

In accordance with the invention deep and uniform heatihg of the pile fibers is accomplished by agitating the pile in lcc'aiized areas to expose substantial portions of the individual fibers to direct contact with a heating medium. An electrifier having agroov'ed heated cylinder and an'apron for pressing thepile' face against the cylinder is ideally suited to this task. The rapidly rotating electrifier cylinder combs or brushes deep into the pile'and heated edges scrape along the surfaces of the pile fibers to transfer heat efficiently to them.

Then, while the pile fibers are still hit enough'to take'a permanent set, a pattern or texture-inducing device is pressed against the face of the-pile fabric to reorient some of the pile fibers. The temperature of this device is about the same as that of the heated fibers contacted thereby so that no fiber-degrading temperature shocks are produced.

The pattern-inducing device may be a 'p'atterned embossing roll formed of wood or other suitable insulating material and it may be mounted for free rotation above the output roll of the electrifier machine so as to press against the'heated pile fibers emerging from the zone of action of the electrifier cylinder. With this arrangement, the relief pattern on the surface of the embossing roll is reproduced in the pile of the'fabric being treated. Then, the fabric is allowed to cool, without disturbing the pile, to set the pattern.

Other texture effects can be'pr'oduced by relative movements between the contacting surfaces of the patterning device and the fabric being treated. For example, the pattern roll may be held stationary or positively rotated in either direction relative to the fabric therebeneath and/or the patte'm roll may be reciprocated axially to shift its surface portions transversely of the fabric. Additionally, the'patte'r'ning device may have various geometrical configurations other than that of a cylindrical roll. Where there is relative movement between the contacting surfaces of the patterning device and the fabric being treated, the pile fibers tend to be reoriented relative to the fabric backing and a wide variety of different texture effects can be produced by suitablycohtrolling such relative movements.

A more complete understanding of these and other features and advantages of the invention will be gained from'the following description of certain embodiments illustrated in the drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a rear elevation view, with portions broken away, of an electrifier machine incorporating a patterning system in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 2 is a vertical cross section, along the line 22 in FIG. 1, showing the basic elements of the electrifier in the positions they occupy prior to the time when a pile fabric is led through the machine and showing a patterning roll in one position of adjustment relative to an output roll of the machine.

FIG. 3 is a somewhat similar vertical cross-sectional view illustrating the electrifier machine components in the positions they occupy during fabric treatment and illustrating another position of adjustment of the patterning roll relative to the output roll of the machine.

FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic plan view illustrating one system for mounting and moving the patterning roll.

FIG. 5 is an end view of the system shown in FIG. 4.

FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a pile-texturing component which in accordance with another embodiment of the invention may replace the patterning roll in the machine of FIGS. 1 through 5.

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of still another form of pile-texturing component which may be used in the practice of this invention in place of the patterning roll shown in FIGS. 1 through 5.

FIG. 8 is a vertical cross-sectional view depicting another patterning assembly particularly suitable for the production in accordance with the invention of long pattern repeats.

FIG. 9 is a cross-sectional view of a heated patterning roll which can be used if desired in place of the unheated patterning roll of FIGS. 1 through 5.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Electrifier machines as such are already well known and widely used in pile-fabric-treating operations. See, for example, Schaab and Brandt, US. Pat. No. 2,934,809 of May 3, 1960. This patent illustrates and describes in detail the construction and organization of the components of a suitable electrifier, and its entire disclosure is incorporated herein by reference.

The electrifier machine includes frame means 2 on which an electrifier roll or cylinder 4 is rotatably mounted. The cylinder 4 is formed from heat conducting material such as steel, and heating means 6 are disposed within the cylinder. In the drawings the heating means 6 has been illustrated in the form of elongated electrical heating elements, but other heating means may be employed if desired. As disclosed more fully in the aforesaid US. Pat. No. 2,934,809, the form and arrangement of the elements of the heating means are so selected as to provide uniform temperature conditions at the outer surface of the electrifier cylinder 4 during operation of the machine.

Helically arranged grooves 8 are formed in the outer surface of the cylinder 4. As indicated in FIGS. 2 and 3, the trailing wall of each groove 8 is abruptly radially shouldered through at least a portion of the groove length and a metal wear plate 10 is secured in place against the trailing wall. Again, reference may be made to 0.8. Pat. No. 2,934,809 for a more detailed description of groove configurations particularly suitable for electrifier drums or cylinders.

An upstanding hood structure 12 partially encloses the electrifier cylinder 4 and permits the exercise of control over cylinder ventilation. By making suitable adjustments in the ventilation system, the operator can establish and maintain appropriate temperature and humidity conditions within the zone of action of the electrifier cylinder.

The organization of the instrumentalities for positioning and feeding the pile fabric being treated is best illustrated in FIGS. 2 and 3. The pile fabric 14 includes a backing 16 and a pile 18. As the pile fabric 14 enters the machine, it passes sequentially over a tension bar 20, under a second tension bar 22 and into contact with an infeed holdback roller 24. This roller 24 is driven at a regulatable speed and its surface is covered with card clothing or the like 26 for engaging the backing 16 of the fabric to assure that the linear speed of the fabric will correspond with the circumferential speed of the roller 24.

A similar roller 28 is located at the rear of the machine. It also is driven at a regulatable speed and its surface is covered with card clothing for engaging the backing 16 of the pile fabric and controlling the rate of delivery of the fabric from the treatment zone.

An endless beltlike apron 30 is movably mounted beneath the electrifier cylinder 4. The apron 30 passes about an idler roller 32 rotatably mounted on a cradle structure 34 and also about a pressure roller 36 rotatably mounted in bearings 38 movably connected to the cradle structure 34. Each of the bearings 38 is carried by a plunger 40 slidable within a cylinder 42 fixed to the cradle structure 34. Spring means 44 are disposed within the lower portions of the cylinders 42 to bear against the plungers 40 and press them outwardly. Since the apron 30 is mounted on the pressure roll 36 and the idler roll 32, the pressure of the spring means 44 controls the tension on this apron 30.

The entire cradle structure 34 is mounted for pivotal movement about the axis of the output roller 28 relative to the frame means 2 of the machine. At its opposite end portion, the cradle structure 34 is pivotally connected at 46 to piston means 48 reciprocable within a pneumatic cylinder 50. The cylinder 50 is in turn pivoted on the frame means 2 as at 52.

When it is desired to thread fabric into the machine, pres-- sure is removed from the cylinder 50 to allow the cradle structure 34 to swing down into the position indicated in FIG. 2. After the fabric has been threaded through the machine, however, pressure is applied to the cylinder 50 to force the cradle structure upwardly and cause the upper surface of the apron 30 to press the fabric 14 into contact with the surface of the electrifier cylinder 4. Adjustments in the amount of pressure applied to the cylinder 50 will serve to control the degree to which the apron 30 wraps around the surface of the electrifier cylinder 4 and therefore the length of the pressure contact area between the pile 18 of the fabric and the surface of the cylinder 4.

The circumferential speed of the electrifier cylinder 4 is much greater than the linear speed of advance of the fabric 14 through the machine. Hence, a working action takes place in the zone where the apron 30 presses the pile face of the fabric against the surface of the cylinder 4. As the grooves 8 in the cylinder 4 move over the fabric, the individual fibers making up the pile 18 move relative to each other and are contacted by the wear plates 10 at the trailing walls of the grooves 8. This produces brushing, combing, beating, and polishing or ironing effects. The pile fibers are straightened and polished, and they are given a more uniform orientation relative to the backing 16 of the fabric.

As suggested in FIG. 3, the pile fibers ordinarily will have a forwardly directed lay as they emerge from the zone of action of the electrifier cylinder 4. That is, the pile fibers ordinarily will be inclined relative to the backing 16 in a direction such that the fiber tips point in the general direction of fabric advance.

However, the lay of the pile is a controllable factor and may be regulated as required. Deep pile knitted fabrics of a type particularly suitable for treatment in accordance with this invention usually are characterized by a distinct directional lay of the pile as the fabric comes out of the knitting operation. Such fabrics may be fed to the electrifier cylinder 4 in either of two directions. If the direction of advance coincides with the lay of the pile, the electrifier cylinder action enhances and regularizes, but does not basically alter the preexisting forwardly directed lay of the pile. However, if the direction of fabric advance is opposite to the direction of lay, the electrifier cylinder 4 will cause the pile fibers to stand more erect and in some instances the direction of lay may even be reversed. Various gradations of these effects are attainable where desired.

Another result of the electrifier cylinder action upon the pile 18 is that the individual pile fibers are thoroughly and uniformly heated along most of their lengths. As the wear plates at the trailing walls of the grooves 8 in the electrifier cylinder 4 dig into the pile 18 and scrape along the surfaces of the pile fibers, heat is transferred efficiently and effectively to these fibers. This is a deep heating effect which conditions not only the exposed top face of the pile 18 but also the underlying portions of the pile fibers which, in the absence of vigorous mechanical agitation of the type effected by the electrifier cylinder 4, are so insulated by the fiber portions thereabove that effective heat transfer is virtually impossible to achieve over a short time span.

The temperature to which the fibers are heated will depend upon the characteristics of the particular fibers involved. Ordinarily fibers of acrylic material, nylon, polyester, cellulose acetate or other suitable fiber-forming synthetic material will be used in the pile l8, and the temperatures to which these fibers need be heated in order for them to accept a permanent set can be readily ascertained.

It is a feature of the present invention that the uniformly heated pile fibers emerging from the zone 'of action of the electrifier cylinder 4 be acted upon while they are still hot by a patternor texture-inducing instrumentality. In the embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 1 through 5, this instrumentality is a wood pattern roll 54 mounted to press downwardly against the pile 18 of the fabric 14. Well-known woodworking techniques are employed to provide the outer surface of the roller 54 with a relief pattern corresponding to the pattern desired for the surface of the pile fabric. As the roller 54 presses against the heated pile fibers, an embossing action takes place.

As will be explained in greater detail with reference to FIG. 4, the location of the pattern roll 54 with respect to the output roll 28 can be adjusted as desired. FIGS. 2 and 3 respectively illustrate two particularly desirable locations of the pattern roll 54. In FIG. 2, the roll 54 is shown as being disposed forwardly of the main body of the output roll 28. In this position of adjustment, the patterning roll 54 would press downwardly against that portion of the pile fabric extending between the electrifier cylinder 4 and the output roll 28, and the tension in this portion of the pile fabric would both limit the pressure exertable by the roll 54 on the pile and also control the area of contact between the surface of the roll 54 and the pile 18. In the position of adjustment shown in FIG. 3, however, the pattern roll 54 is directly above the output roll 28 and it presses the fabric against the card clothing surrounding the output roll 28. In this latter case, the pressure exerted by the pattern roll 54 is not particularly affected by fabric tension, but it is affected by the resiliency of the wires which make up the card clothing.

The fabric passing from the roller 54 is exposed to atmospheric conditions and the pile fibers begin to cool. For most applications of the invention, the cooling effect achieved as the fabric advances from the output roll 28 down to the floor adjacent the electrifier machine will be sufficient to set the pattern or texture formed in the pile by the roller 54. However, if further cooling is desired in particular instances, they may be accomplished without disturbing the pattern by gently blowing chilled air against the moving fabric and/or by festooning the emerging fabric in a conventional way to prolong the cooling time.

FIG. 4 diagrammatically illustrates a suitable system for positioning and controlling the pattemor texture-inducing instrumentality 54. In this embodiment, the roller 54 is provided with axially protruding end portions 56 and 58 rotatably mounted in bearings 60 extending through slots 61 in arm members 62 of a subframe assembly 64. Nut means 65 threadedly engage the bearing elements 60 to clamp them in selected positions of adjustment along the slots 61. A support shaft 66 is fixed in position on the main frame 2 of the machine by means 68 and cooperates with bearing means 70 on the subframe assembly 64 to support the subframe assembly 64 for both pivotal movement about the shaft 66 and for axial movement along the length of the shaft 66.

The capacity of the subframeassembly 64 for pivotal movement about the horizontal shaft 66'pennits lifting of the pattern roll 54 away from the output roll 28 during initial threading of the fabric 14 through the machine. Then, the roll 54 may be lowered to press against the pile 18 under the influence of gravity. Weights 72 are slidably positioned on protruding 'outer end portions of the arm elements 62 and may be fixed in selected positions of adjustment by setscrews73. Any desired changes in the pressure exerted by the pattern roll 54 against the pile surface may be achieved readily by adjusting the positions of the weights 72 relative to the axis of the support shaft 66 and/or by using weights of different values.

The axial positioning of the subframe assembly 64 with respect to the support shaft 66 is controlled by a cam 74 fixed on a rotatable vertical shaft 76 mounted on the mainframe 2 of the machine. Cam follower means 78 are incorporated in the subframe assembly 64 to bear against opposite sides of the cam 74 so that when the cam 74 is revolved about the axis of the shaft 76, the subframe assembly 64 will reciprocate axially along the support shaft 66. In some instances it will be found desirable to rotate the shaft 76 slowly during fabric-patterning operations so as to shift the patterning roller 54 relative to the fabric and thereby change the alignment of the pattern effects produced by the relief formations at the surface of the roller 54. In other instances, the shaft 76 will only be rotated as a part of the initial machine setup procedure for the purpose of bringing the cam 74 to a position which properly positionsthe pattern roller 54. In these latter instances, the shaft 76 will be held stationary during normal fabric-treating operations and the pattern roll 54will not oscillate widthwise of the fabric.

The system of FIG. 4 also makes provisions for controlling possible movements of the pattern roll 54 about its own axis. The outer end portion of the shaft element 58 at one end of the pattern roll 54 has a pulley 80 fixed thereon. This pulley 80 forms a part of a belt driven train which additionally includes a drive pulley 82, a power-transmitting band or belt 84, and suitable belt-tensioning means 85. The drive pulley 82 is fixed on a rotatable sleeve 86 coaxial with the support shaft 66 and mounted on the subassembly bearing 70 for axial movement therewith. The outer end portion of the sleeve 86 telescopes over an output shaft 88 from a clutch unit 90, and an axially elongated radial protrusion on the shaft 88 cooperates with a slot in the sleeve 86 to cause the sleeve 86 to rotate with the shaft 88. An input shaft 92 to the clutch unit 90 is appropriately coupled to an adjustable speed reversible motor and braking unit 94. The clutch unit 90 may be of any of the welhknown types which are controllable to either free the output shaft88 from the influence of the input shaft 92 or to couple the output shaft 88 rotationally to the input shaft 92.

The illustrated system may be used to control the rotational characteristics of the pattern roll 54 in a variety of ways. When the clutch 90 is deactivated, the pattern roll 54 may rotate freely. Ordinarily when this is done, the surface speed of the pattern roll 54 will match the linear speed of fabric advance, and there are no substantial drag or pull effects exerted on the fabric.

When the clutch 90 is activated to couple the output and input shafts 88 and 92, all of the various capabilities of the motor and brake unit 94 may be brought to bear on the pattern roller 54. The braking system may be brought into play to hold the pattern roll 54 against rotation and cause it to exert a dragging action against the pile 18. Similar dragging actions can be achieved also by causing the motor 94 to rotate the roller 54 in a direction contrary to the direction of fabric advance, with the severity of the dragging action being controllable through selective speed changes. Alternatively, the motor 94 may be reversed to cause the surface of the pattern roll 54 to move in the same direction as that in which the fabric is being advanced, and again, one may control the effects produced by changing the speed of the motor 94. I

It will be understood, of course, that the wide range of options provided by the system illustrated in FIG. 4 need not always be available in connection with commercial uses of the invention. Once a decision has been reached to proceed with large scale production of a given pattern or texture, one can tailor the mounting and control structures for the patterning instrumentality to the requirements of that particular production operation, and ordinarily it can be anticipated that somewhat simplified structural arrangements will suffice.

The temperature and heat conducting characteristics of the patternor texture-inducing instrumentality 54 are significant. In general it is desirable that the patterning device be constructed and operated so that it has little effect on the existing temperature conditions in the fibers making up the pile 18 of the fabric 14.

Forming the pattern roll 54 of wood is one simple way of achieving this result. Wood is a poor conductor of heat, and after a short startup period of operation, the surface temperature of a wooden pattern roll will stabilize at a level corresponding to that of the pile l8 contacting the roll. Hence, the roll neither cools nor heats significantly the upper pile fiber portions, and there is little tendency to disturb the uniform temperature conditions extending deep into the masses of the pile 18 emerging from the electrifier cylinder 4. The pressure actions of the roll 54 have effects deep into the pile mass and detrimental temperature shocks in the outermost pile fibers are avoided. As a result, the pile fibers retain their luster and the pattern is more uniform and predictable.

Similar results can of course be obtained with other physical structures. For example, a metal roll may be covered with a layer of insulating material bearing the desired relief pattern. One such arrangement, particularly suited to the production of long pattern repeats, is indicated in FIG. 8, wherein an endless rubber or composition belt 100 is guided about a pair of spaced-apart metal rolls 102 and 104. The belt 100 has a desired relief pattern molded or otherwise formed in its outer surface, and as the belt moves beneath the lower roll 102, the pattern is impressed into the pile 18 of the fabric therebeneath. In this connection, it will be understood of course that the lower roll 102 is positioned with reference to the other components of the apparatus in the same manner as the previously described wooden roll 54.

The rubber belt 100 ordinarily will be so thick that there is no problem of heat transfer to the metal rolls 102 and 104. However, should such a problem arise in any particular operation, means may be provided for heating the rolls 102 and 104 to reduce the temperature gradient across the belt 100. Similarly, where structural or other considerations indicate the use of a metal patterning instrumentality bearing directly against the pile fabric, controlled heat inputs to the device can be used to minimize temperature gradients between the instrumentality and the pile being treated. Such an instrumentality is illustrated in FIG. 9. The pattern roll [06 is in the form of a hollow metal cylinder the outer surface of which bears the desired relief pattern, and electric heating elements 108 are disposed within the cylinder.

By controlling the current supplied to the heating elements 108, one can maintain the body of metal making up the cylinder 106 at approximately the same temperature as the pile being acted upon. The patterning operation then will proceed in much the same way as when the wooden roll 54 is used. Alternatively, one can set the current for the heating elements 108 to produce controlled temperature gradients in either direction as between the roll 106 and the pile being treated so as to produce special effects.

The structure of the output roll 28 against which the patterning instrumentality presses the fabric 14 is particularly desirable from the standpoint of heat control. Although the distinctive heating action of the electrifier cylinder does not cause the backing 16 of the pile fabric to reach the temperature levels imparted to the upwardly protruding pile fibers, it nevertheless is desirable to inhibit heat loss in the area of pressure contact between the fabric and the output roll 28. This result is attained in the illustrated embodiment of the invention by reason of the card clothing on the surface of the roll 28. Although the individual card wires are good heat conductors, their area of contact with the backing 16 of the fabric is small and individual ones of them are surrounded by relatively large airspaces.

Other particularly desirable forms of texture inducing devices which may be mounted in place of the pattern roll 54 of FIGS. 1 through 5 are depicted in FIGS. 6 and 7. Both are rectangular solid bodies of wood.

In FIG. 6, the faces of the body 1 10 are plane, but in FIG. 7, at least one face 112 of the body 114 is provided with grooves 116 extending thereacross. These grooves 116 extend generally in the direction of fabric advance through the patterning area, but they are somewhat S-shaped in longitudinal configuration.

The plain rectangular texturing element of FIG. 6 is ideally suited to the production of effects similar to those present in Persian lamb coats. An exemplary set of conditions appropriate for such a texturing operation will further illustrate the invention.

In setting up the apparatus for the production of simulated Persian lamb fabric, the element 110 should be positioned directly above the output roll 28 (the position of pattern roll 54 in FIG. 3) and held against rotation about its own axis with one of its plane faces extending horizontally over the top center portion of the output roll 28. The element 110 is square in cross section with each side being about 2 inches wide. The element 110 is long enough to bear against the entire width of the fabric being treated, and a downwardly directed force of about 15 pounds is applied by the weight means 72 to each end of the device 110.

The fabric 14 fed to the machine may be a sliver knit fabric having a pile width of 54 inches, with backing selvage portions adding about 3 inches to the total fabric width. The backing 16 is formed from 2/20s cotton yarns and is back coated with about 1 pound per linear yard (dry weight) of a suitable synthetic rubber material such as neoprene to provide a total backing weight of about 1.4 pounds per linear yard.

The pile 18 is formed of black, 3 denier, acrylic fibers of the type sold under the trademark Orion by E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Co. of Wilmington, Delaware. After initial fabrication and prior to being fed to the electrifier, the pile is sheared to a height of about three-eighths inch above the backing. As fed to the electrifier, the pile has a density of about 1.25 pounds per linear yard, and the fibers exhibit a slight lay in the direction of fabric advance into the machine of FIGS. 1 through 3.

The speed of fabric advance through the machine, as controlled by the drive for the output roll 28 should be about 4.5 yards per minute. The electrifier cylinder 4 has a diameter of 10 inches and is rotated at about 600 rpm. The heating means for the electrifier cylinder 4 should be operated to maintain it at about 400 F.

Under these conditions, the electrifier roll 4 polishes the pile fibers, gives them an enhanced lay in the direction of fabric advance, and heats the fibers to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set. As the still hot pile fibers move into contact with pattern device 110, their tips catch and hang in a random fashion on the edge of the device 1 l0, and randomly oriented and sized fiber groupings build up to provide localized pressure zones over the fabric face. Simultaneously, some variations in the position of the device 110 occur because it is free to move about the axis of shaft 66 even though it is weighted downwardly.

The net result of these actions is a dramatic change in the character of the pile face. There are depressed areas randomly distributed among higher pile areas in which some of the fibers extend well above the general level of the pile as it was fed to the element 110. The size, frequency and random character of these variations in the pile face give the product an appearance and feel much like a Persian lamb garment, and the fabric is quite suitable for use in ladies coats for example.

Other pattern effects may be obtained by employing the device 110 in different ways. If the device 110 is allowed to rotate slowly, an interesting shingle pattern or texture can be imparted to the pile fabric. The device 110 also may be oscillated widthwise of the fabric being treated to vary its action on the pile fibers.

The device 114 of FIG. 7 normally is mounted so that its grooved face 112 is disposed toward the output roll 28 of the machine. With this arrangement, some pile fibers enter the grooves 116 and escape contact with the leading edge of the device 114, and some fibers are acted upon by the wavy edges of the grooves after the leading edge of the device 114 has been passed. The results produced include a pattern effect having a discernible longitudinal orientation relative to the direction of fabric advance. However, harsh lining is avoided, and the texture is pleasing for many uses.

Other adaptations of the invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art. The method of the invention may be applied to pile fabrics having various types of pile fibers. It is necessary of course that the fibers be capable of taking a heat set and that the temperature of the electrifier roll 4 be controlled with due regard for the characteristics of the particular material being treated.

Although the fiber heating action of an electrifier roll is particularly effective in preparing the pile fibers for the pattern or texture inducing step, some alternatives are possible. For example, rapid deep heating of the pile fibers of a pile fabric may be accomplished by directing multiple jets of heated fluid such as steam into the pile to vigorously agitate the individual pile fibers and expose substantial portions of their lengths to contact with the heated fluid. With some fabrics such a system could be used in place of the electrifier roll 4. However, the electrifier is preferable for most treatments and it ordinarily will be used.

Also, it will be evident that the invention may be combined with various patterning techniques already known. For example, color variations in the pile may be produced through the use of conventional printing fluids and/or the pile fibers employed in a given fabric may differ in color or texture and may be arranged in patterns.

Accordingly, the foregoing description of certain embodiments of the invention is to be considered as exemplary only.

What is claimed is:

l. A method of treating pile fabric comprising:

advancing the pile fabric along a path extending sequentially through a heating zone, a texturing zone and a cooling zone,

mechanically contacting in said heating zone the pile face of the advancing fabric with relatively moving heating means having at least one heated edge portion which moves along the pile fibers to heat the fibers along substantial portions of their lengths to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set,

mechanically reorienting the pile fibers relative to the backing of said fabric as the advancing fabric moves through said texturing zone and while said pile fibers are in the heated condition imparted to them by said heating means, said reorienting being carried out without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers, and

allowing said pile fibers to cool in said cooling zone to set the fibers in their reoriented conditions.

2. A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out in the absence of material temperature changes in said fibers.

3. A method according to claim 2 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by pressing a member having a heat-insulating surface against the pile of the advancing fabric.

4. A method according to claim 3 wherein said heat-insulating surface bears a relief pattern.

5. A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by advancing the pile fibers relative to the surface of a member pressed against the pile face to cause said fibers to catch and bunch together and produce localized density variations in the pile.

6. A method of treating pile fabric comprising:

advancing the pile fabric along a path extending sequentially through a heating zone, a texturing zone and a cooling zone,

contacting in said heating zone the pile face of the advancing fabric with a relatively moving heating medium which moves the pile fibers of said fabric relative to each other to expose said fibers to contact with the heating medium along substantial portions of their lengths,

mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers relative to the backing of said fabric as the advancing fabric moves through said texturing zone, and

allowing said pile fibers to cool in said cooling zone to set the fibers in their reoriented conditions;

said contacting step being an electrifying step in which the pile is brushed and combed mechanically and in which heated metal edges move along the pile fibers to polish and heat the fibers to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and said mechanical reorienting occurring while the pile fibers are in this heated condition and without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon the pile fibers.

7. A method according to claim 6 wherein said electrifying step is carried out to impart a forwardly directed lay to the pile of the advancing fabric, and wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by advancing the pile fibers beneath a downwardly weighted member having an edge against which the forwardly directed pile fibers may catch in a random fashion to produce randomly sized and shaped localized density variations in the pile.

8. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus comprising:

means for advancing a pile fabric along a path at a predetermined speed,

a grooved, heated electrifier cylinder mounted adjacent said path for rotation at a surface speed greater than the speed of fabric advance,

means for pressing the pile of the advancing fabric into contact with the surface of said electrifier cylinder to cause the pile fibers to be brushed and heated to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and

texture-inducing means mounted to press against the heated pile fibers emerging from the zone of action of said electrifier cylinder to act on said heated pile fibers so as to ef fect permanent reorientation thereof without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers.

9. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 8 additionally comprising hood means adjacent said electrifier cylinder for controlling ventilation of the fabric being advanced to said texture-inducing means.

10. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus comprising:

means for advancing a pile fabric along a path at a predetermined speed,

a grooved, heated cylinder mounted adjacent said path for rotation at a surface speed greater than the speed of fabric advance,

means for pressing the pile of the advancing fabric into contact with the surface of said cylinder to cause the pile fibers to be worked and heated to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and

texture-inducing means mounted to press against the heated pile fibers emerging from the zone of action of said cylinder to act on said heated pile fibers so as to effect permanent reorientation thereof without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers.

ll. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said fabric-advancing means includes a driven output roll covered with card clothing for contacting the backing of the pile fabric and wherein said texture-inducing means is mounted to press yieldingly against the face of the pile fabric in the vicinity of said output roll.

12. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 11 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is positioned directly opposite said output roll to press said fabric against said output roll.

13. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 11 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is positioned to press against the pile fabric prior to contact of the fabric with said output roll.

14. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality includes a surface movable through an endless path a portion of which intersects the path of said fabric.

15. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 14 wherein said instrumentality includes an endless belt bearing a relief pattern on the surface thereof.

16. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 14 wherein said instrumentality is an embossing roll.

17. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 14including means for controlling the movement of said surface.

18. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is polygonal in cross section.

19. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is fixed against rotation about its axis.

20. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is rotated about its axis to produce a shingle effect in the fabric face.

21. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein a plane face portion of said instrumentality contacts said fabric;

22. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein a grooved face portion of said instrumcntality contacts said fabric.

23. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 additionally including means for reciprocating said texture-inducing instrumentality laterally of said advancing fabric.

24. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality includes a surface of heat-insulating material for contacting the heated pile fibers. 

1. A method of treating pile fabric comprising: advancing the pile fabric along a path extending sequentially through a heating zone, a texturing zone and a cooling zone, mechanically contacting in said heating zone the pile face of the advancing fabric with relatively moving heating means having at least one heated edge portion which moves along the pile fibers to heat the fibers along substantial portions of their lengths to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, mechanically reorienting the pile fibers relative to the backing of said fabric as the advancing fabric moves through said texturing zone and while said pile fibers are in the heated condition imparted to them by said heating means, said reorienting being carried out without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers, and allowing said pile fibers to cool in said cooling zone to set the fibers in their reoriented conditions.
 2. A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out in the absence of material temperature changes in said fibers.
 3. A method according to claim 2 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by pressing a member having a heat-insulating surface against the pile of the advancing fabric.
 4. A method according to claim 3 wherein said heat-insulating surface bears a relief pattern.
 5. A method according to claim 1 wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by advancing the pile fibers relative to the surface of a member pressed against the pile face to cause said fibers to catch and bunch together and produce localized density variations in the pile.
 6. A method of treating pile fabric comprising: advancing the pile fabric along a path extending sequentially through a heating zone, a texturing zone and a cooling zone, contacting in said heating zone the pile face of the advancing fabric with a relatively moving heating medium which moves the pile fibers of said fabric relative to each other to expose said fibers to contact with the heating medium along substantial portions of their lengths, mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers relative to the backing of said fabric as the advancing fabric moves through said texturing zone, and allowing said pile fibers to cool in saiD cooling zone to set the fibers in their reoriented conditions; said contacting step being an electrifying step in which the pile is brushed and combed mechanically and in which heated metal edges move along the pile fibers to polish and heat the fibers to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and said mechanical reorienting occurring while the pile fibers are in this heated condition and without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon the pile fibers.
 7. A method according to claim 6 wherein said electrifying step is carried out to impart a forwardly directed lay to the pile of the advancing fabric, and wherein said step of mechanically reorienting the heated pile fibers is carried out by advancing the pile fibers beneath a downwardly weighted member having an edge against which the forwardly directed pile fibers may catch in a random fashion to produce randomly sized and shaped localized density variations in the pile.
 8. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus comprising: means for advancing a pile fabric along a path at a predetermined speed, a grooved, heated electrifier cylinder mounted adjacent said path for rotation at a surface speed greater than the speed of fabric advance, means for pressing the pile of the advancing fabric into contact with the surface of said electrifier cylinder to cause the pile fibers to be brushed and heated to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and texture-inducing means mounted to press against the heated pile fibers emerging from the zone of action of said electrifier cylinder to act on said heated pile fibers so as to effect permanent reorientation thereof without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers.
 9. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 8 additionally comprising hood means adjacent said electrifier cylinder for controlling ventilation of the fabric being advanced to said texture-inducing means.
 10. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus comprising: means for advancing a pile fabric along a path at a predetermined speed, a grooved, heated cylinder mounted adjacent said path for rotation at a surface speed greater than the speed of fabric advance, means for pressing the pile of the advancing fabric into contact with the surface of said cylinder to cause the pile fibers to be worked and heated to a temperature level at which they can accept a permanent set, and texture-inducing means mounted to press against the heated pile fibers emerging from the zone of action of said cylinder to act on said heated pile fibers so as to effect permanent reorientation thereof without imposing deleterious temperature changes upon said pile fibers.
 11. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said fabric-advancing means includes a driven output roll covered with card clothing for contacting the backing of the pile fabric and wherein said texture-inducing means is mounted to press yieldingly against the face of the pile fabric in the vicinity of said output roll.
 12. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 11 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is positioned directly opposite said output roll to press said fabric against said output roll.
 13. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 11 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is positioned to press against the pile fabric prior to contact of the fabric with said output roll.
 14. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality includes a surface movable through an endless path a portion of which intersects the path of said fabric.
 15. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 14 wherein said instrumentality includes an endless belt bearing a relief pattern on the surface thereof.
 16. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 14 wherein said instrumentality is an embossing roll.
 17. Pile-fabric-finishing apparaTus according to claim 14 including means for controlling the movement of said surface.
 18. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is polygonal in cross section.
 19. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is fixed against rotation about its axis.
 20. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality is rotated about its axis to produce a shingle effect in the fabric face.
 21. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein a plane face portion of said instrumentality contacts said fabric.
 22. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 18 wherein a grooved face portion of said instrumentality contacts said fabric.
 23. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 additionally including means for reciprocating said texture-inducing instrumentality laterally of said advancing fabric.
 24. Pile-fabric-finishing apparatus according to claim 10 wherein said texture-inducing instrumentality includes a surface of heat-insulating material for contacting the heated pile fibers. 